Following on from previous postings on.the following topic’s:

The colour wheel .The law of color as it relates to hair colouring. The Ph scale and the chemistry of hair.

It’s now time to look developers lift tone deposit and how they work:

The dyes lift the hair natural pigment and deposit a new artificial colour at the same time. Working in conjunction with our chosen developer as the lifting process starts. We lighten the hair thus exposing natural lightened pigment as our chosen developer or hydrogen peroxide lifts the hair lighter, so more pigment is exposed this pigment becomes part of our colour equation.

The Colour it’s self an oxidative dye pigment remains inert until mixed with hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction]

With all hair colouring the key to success is Formulation, application and timing.choosing the incorrect shade can cause issues as can using the wrong strength of developer. Its a fine balance.

The different strengths and uses are as follows:

Uses:

Demi lotion

*5 Vol less no lift only works with the artificial pigment molecules.

*10vol [ 3%]

*Will only expose the pigment at the given level. zero lift from level to another.

* suitable for tone on tone or darker.

* can be used fro toner deposit on pre- lightened hair. i would consider using a demi    application in this instance.

*Covering some examples of Grey hair.

*pre-softening  resistant hair.

*Refreshing a tint, again i would consider a demi application for deposit only.

20vol [6%]

*All regular root applications [virgin hair application]

* Will produce one level of lift. That being for example lifting through level 6 exposing pigment expected at a level 7 [ see colour wheel]

30vol[9%]

* 2 to3 levels of lift . That being for example lifting 6 to level 8 exposing pigment at that level.If confused about three level 6 to 8 consider it has to lift through the pigment at level 6 before exposing the pigment and a level 7 and finally through level 8. see chart below count off level 6 to 8?

40vol [12%]

3 to 4 levels of lift,the same rule applies as above.  expecting anything other than a high level lift formulation will not achieve lift from a level 6 to10. amount of lift and pigment exposed will always be an issue in this instance. think 6 to 9!

In some cases a high lift blonde formulation can achieve desired lift this is due to the following.

* For high lift blonde formulation. The mixing ratio normally increase the ratio of hydrogen peroxide in the formulation to 1 part colour to 2 parts developer always check the product you use for directions. they can also in some cases have other chemical properties added to aid in the lift and deposit needed to reach target colour.

*High lift blonde shades. Normally have a more concentrated amount of pigment to work with the pigment exposed in the lifting process depending on choice of shade. They also have a longer process time due to level of peroxide being used to attain this degree of lift. It is always worth considering lift required and in some cases a bleach lightener / decolourizer may be required to attain desired degree of lift.

As an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} so to bring balance to a correct level 7 we would look for a shade with a blue pigmentation or tone.

Hydrogen peroxide will only release the oxygen molecule required when in an alkaline state this is why oxidative dye products require the presence of ammonia or some other alkaline some derived  from a natural sauce. [making them herbal]. This returns the hydrogen peroxide to its natural alkaline state and allows it to release oxygen freely.  The ammonia also acts as the engine drawing the colour under the opened cuticle helping it penetrate the cortex where it becomes fully developed.

To simplify:

The artificial colour molecule is drawn into the hair under the partially opened cuticle. the cuticle having been lifted by the ammonia that is now drawing the colour molecule into the cortex. The Hydrogen peroxide in the formulation is lightening the hairs natural melanin whilst at the same time the oxygen released is swelling the artificial pigment within the cortex and hair shaft trapping it deep inside the hairs structure.

True colours:

This would be degrees of Brown or our N series these are designed to have enough artificial pigment to control the pigment exposed at any given level. working with a max of 20vol [6%] higher levels will require consideration of desired target. warm or cool or do you want to neutralise or utilise the pigment exposed at any given level. We did say this was quite a big topic, it would be a long journey.Problems that can arise from permanent colour normally due to over processing. Damage to the cuticle it becomes raised cannot retain colouur [P/h issue]. Lack of moisture due to heat styling/exposure to the sun and element such as chlorine. Wrong formulation. Excessive colouring,

Lack of Grey coverage is normally a formulation and timing issue. poor assessment in the consultation process of amount of Grey so amount of N series required in formulation.Wrong choice of developer, correct development time. wash of to soon dye molecules that have not had time to develope and bond are washed away.Hair that is resistant to colour closed cuticle very resistant Grey hair. Pre-soften  with a formulation using either Demi lotion or 10 vol with natural level N series. leave for 20 minutes wash off with cold water, before apply target formulation.

The advantages of permanent colour.

*Can permanently change hair colour.

*will lighten hair deposit colour or tone colour simultaneously.

*100% of Grey or white hair with correct formulation

.*Durability.

*versatility.

*soften or pre pigment hair,can add texture due to a more open cuticle.

Finally in closing this section in the consultation process it should be explained to clients their expected commitment when choosing permanent colour. My advise would always be chose the path with the least chemistry as possible to start with.

*Roots will need re touching between 4 to 6weeks,

* colour can fade on damaged or over processed hair. colour balancing is key to colour pigment retention.

*Danger of allergic reaction Always do a skin test. prior to any chemical service.

Colour balancing is required to refresh colour that is being re touched, The formulation on the root or re growth will be different to that required for the previously coloured mid lengths and ends both in choice of shade and developed used. 0 lift on pre coloured area!

Take a break digest remember it’s a lot to take in digest understand.

Finally: Herbal or Organic Colour: These have a arrived in recent years with a fan fair of hype marketed as being. Ammonia free, all natural,conditioning.  bla bla bla!  sorry only my opinion but as we have discussed an alkaline has to be present for the colour process to work. So yes you have to consider the level of ammonia in the product you chose or an alternative. Hair colour still needs driver an engine in most organic or herbal colours the ammonia is replaced with either denatured alcohol. In some cases detergent derived products,they all serve to act as an alkaline. Denatured alcohol is derived from grain fermentation this process produces alcohol and indeed bio fuel. this acts as the replacement for ammonia but because it’s derived from grain it’s classed as being Herbal natural. it’s your choice as to the organic route or not the process of lift and depsoit is the same as for permanent colour. We are now flooded with adds marketing HERBAL, NATURAL, ORGANIC, Ammonia free products without being given any idea of what the replacement chemistry might be.How it works or what it does. Why don’t we ask questions? seek answers? Why are we so trusting? This colour chemistry revolution is already in home colour hair kits.They promote safety healthy hair. Quick fix ammonia free colour. Is this really professional? The question i ask is simple is it really a new innovation? is it really any less harmful than Ammonia?

Thoughts on new MEA: As engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? .

Some useful facts:

Monoethanolamine and Ammonia Fact Sheet

1. Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a stable alkaline liquid.

2. Ammonia is a gas.

3. MEA has a larger molecule than ammonia, which means it is less volatile.

4. MEA does not give off gas when used in hair colour.

5. Ammonia gas is given off when used in hair colour.

6. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.

7. Prolonged exposure of ammonia does present a health risk.

8. Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

9. The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely

untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

10. There is no proof that ammonia washes off the hair and that MEA does not.

11.Organic colour uses oleic acid in the formulation specifically to neutralise MEA, so even if the colour was not washed off correctly.The MEA has been neutralised and would have no adverse effect on the hair.

My hope is that some find this useful and that it makes you question. What your use and why! Is it really so natural organic and healthy!!!!!!

Mike B2MR

Management leadership and control Or Collaboration. In the Salon and training facilities:

Certainly not a normal topic for hair related blog but one worthy of discussion and one that may well be of interest to you and your team.

Why a topic an leadership management and collaboration ? Well i think that it’s a very relevant topic to look at. One that can and does get ignored.One that can play a role to successful team building encouraging  creative and innovative thinking and sharing of idea’s in the salon.

At this time I might suggest that the ‘Collaborative thinking’ suggested in this topic could so easily be employed by. Colleges. Academy’s and the Salon’s. To better the. Student. Apprentice and trainee experience of our industry. Creative innovative thinking!

The hair salon it’s our theatre:

What is the salon but a stage what are we but player’s in a play.The play being the unscripted play called ‘The salon today’. This scenario played out daily staring the staff and clients. These unscripted scene’s play out daily evolving as the interaction between client and stylist take place. Entertaining, challenging, rewarding, sometimes thought provoking. What ever the case always different. As the day progresses so does the play some of the cast change be that stylist or clients but the play must go on.

On occasion this this rhythm this natural flow can break down or be interrupted. By an out side force or influence. This can be very disturbing normally caused when some one is trying to hard to be the director and producer. In this instance maybe an over zealous manager maybe an owner who likes to have tight control over the salon and how it runs.

Leadership and management: I believe very important and do contribute to making a salon or spa run more efficiently but this power in the wrong hands can and will cause issue or problems. Good management and indeed leadership occurs when support is given to others providing them with the tools and or environment to do and indeed deliver great service. This becomes hindered when the motivation is not selfless.

Team or group meetings:

How often do you have team meetings? Idea’s are kicked around plans put in place for change and or improvement. How often is the right praise or recognition given to the right person? Appreciation, thanks, reward, incentive.

Some times as managers and owners we forget that it takes many small parts to make the big part work. Some times as manager and or department heads we can fail! How? Because we cannot let go we have to have control we have to be seen as the one holding everything together. We want and need constant approval and recognition for all that is achieved. This does not lend to a good working environment. It’s to ‘controlling’

Control or collaboration:

It takes a much braver person with a bigger vision to encourage collaboration for this means letting go of the rein’s! Collaboration creates ‘empowerment’ improves problem solving increases creativity encourages innovation. Why are so many business’s afraid of it? The short answer is that collaborations dangerous! Collaboration relives one’s immediate control. scary ha! This may well sound quite threatening to some owners and managers. Maybe we can look at some reason as to why!

Collaboration to me is: 

A sharing of thoughts visions idea’s. It’s encourages us to step out side of our comfort zone look beyond our own expertise. For this to really work a certain level of ambiguity has to be accepted by all.

The letting go of ‘control’ comes in to play, because for collaboration to work hierarchy has to put to the side. An approach of ‘tribe of doing things’ needs to move in and ‘chief of all answers’ needs to step down ! This should open the doors for ‘thinking together’ problem solving taking action.Talk is not enough!!

Collaboration really only works. When there has to be a flow of all information dialogue and so progress between the group or team. This might be hard for some but it’s key to the team and so to the ‘collaborative thinking process’. Some times conflict can happen this has to be addressed it cannot be ignored. Avoiding it indicates that you don’t know how to fight or stand up effectively. Trade off and compromise skills to learn and employ.

Collaboration: Happens on top of or out side of normal work. It takes commitment it can at times seam  overwhelming and stressful. Sometimes we here the term ‘Oh things would be so much better if we could just collaborate a little more’  But really it’s not that easy. how often is it put into practice?

Collaboration is about friction debate forging of new idea’s and ways to work better together.Owners and managers need to do more than just tell others what to do they have to listen, team members have to have a voice and use it!  You cannot just point out. ‘hey that’s broken’ and walk away! It has to be fixed. The fear is by many. That an opinion will be asked for! When given this opinion must be listened to.

This thinking may well not be right for all. ‘Leadership’ Is to bring this change about. One of direction and focus supported by and with ‘Followership’. The supporting team.’Collaborating together to bring about change and innovation. These efforts should be judged on out come. They offer no reward for’ Individual merit for effort! letting go of preconceived idea’s. All working together for the common good.

Collaboration. Innovation. Creative thinking.All growing together  create solution get past the problem ask the question ‘How’ the rest follows.

It has been intentional to use the same pictures in some case twice it an example of how we can repeat. How easy it is to have the same discussion and little or no action.

If you as an owner and your team are ready for a challenge one that takes commitment and hard work but offers full support to you  and your team to grow your business and deal with the many issues that arise you might be ready to take a look at the passionate team at ‘Salon success’ and all the experience they can offer you. The  many way’s they can show and help you to get the very best from your business.

Mike B2MR

What is the hair salon or Spa? What business are we in? What is it we are selling or producing? Yes it’s. Hair cutting or colouring or a variety of the many services we offer as a salon or spa. Consider this we are really selling or providing an experience.Oh and we are the product that makes this happen.

Lets take a look at this together:

We are in the business of pampering. Do you think your client comes to you wanting expecting the same as last time! NO! They trust you. They come to you because they like you. How easy it is to forget that we have the power the skill the knowledge to make them feel special look great.it’s so easy to get complacent.

Where does this all stem from the Consultation. Our time to review past styles and looks and suggest the new! The upgrade! That shared suggestion of a new colour a new look. It shows you care ! It’s not selling. It advising it’s what you me we are paid for ‘expertise’.

This process of taking the time to talk and assess with your client should happen every time they come for an appointment. Not only with new clients and then on odd times there after. We are constantly looking for and indeed advertise for new clients: Did you know that on average over 50% of new clients to a salon never return for a second visit! Maybe just maybe we need to look at this! Maybe we need to do something differently or make some changes.

For change to happen:

How do we make change happen, what do we need? Firstly we need to know that if nothing changes if we keep doing the same old thing we get the same old results! Change is scary change is challenging! How about change is exciting. No one likes change it takes us out side our comfort zone. However scary it is such a positive move to make to reassess goals and vision to take control. To honestly look at what you can do differently where those weaknesses might be.

Have a goal as a salon to keep as many new clients as possible  look at what you do what you offer and how you perform. The service.That consultation. The salon and indeed staff image the atmosphere. The right team with the same vision on the right tracks!

An example of change.

Last week i gave my wife a new cut and colour. I gave her a lesson in styling the new look. I gave her  a brush. Today she was doing her hair ad i suggested that for the new look to work she had to make  a change! If she intended on styling her hair the way it was before then it would not look any different. For change to happen she had to change the way she was styling her hair! She laughed and agreed but it’s not easy she said! True but nothing is unless you practice you get out what you put in! I re did her hair for her and suggested she practice doing things differently! Thus making change happen. Lesson change is not easy!

Asking for help. Doing research.

It takes a bigger person to ask for help than to just muddle along. Expecting different results without making any change. Admitting to ones self that change is needed and that it might well take some time commitment and work. But know this every thing is possible. With time patients and willingness for change to happen.

The key’s:

Creative thinking:

Innovative thinking:

Collaboration with staff and or team mates:

Communication:

Commitment to the process:

Mike B2MR

Following in the steps of our make over article some food for thought

A place to share thoughts: review hair colour, products and techniques.

I’m often asked how many different hair cuts are there ? My first thought was thousands but then if one really thinks about it well it’s quite an interesting thought process.

We need to think this through a little!

Long.             Anything past shoulder blades

Medium.        Shoulder blades up to nape or chin length

Short.            Anything above this.

Remember this is my thought process into the question asked not a definitive way of assessing or going about cutting or assessment of length or look, just sharing thoughts views on the process! My thought went to layers why layers. well at the end of the day if not all one length then layers to some degree or another make form the shape. It could be argued that layers are required for a perfect on length look for that wonderful swing and movement!

We must not forget techniques, slide cutting, castle thinning shear, razor Cutting, and the many other tools we have at out disposal but these are techniques if you like artistic license, freestyle cutting.The basic’s don’t change the length and degree of layering.Shape form, weight distribution. This sounds to simplistic all hair cuts are length and shape created by degree’s of layering. Simple it’s not because with this description we have to consider the real part creative talent, skill training. Any hair cut however basic or however complicated is a mixture and blend of above techniques.

What is a hair cut:

A hair cut is weight distribution it is having understanding of when cutting hair off where it will fall and lie how it will contribute to the final shape. It is being able to see and imagine shape. Someone once said a great hairdresser should see a shape in 3D know how it will look, I think this a perfect analogy.

A great hair cut is a blend of the degree of laying but having a full understanding of weight distribution and a vision to see shape.

The key is that consultation. On length and shape but also first and foremost to understand that if you put a weight line in with your fist cut it will dictate the whole cut it can make the difference between good bad average or just not good.

What ever we are doing creating has to start with a foundation. If you do this a weight line can be moved as a shape forms if you commit to it off the bat by dictating from the crown you have know room for change maybe that odd growth pattern double crown all things that can cause issue!

It can also be said that one length really is only when cut to 1/8th of an inch all over and left to grow but this would only be true as it grows out if you turned the person up side down. but then we are back into weight distribution why because you cannot cut a straight line on a curved surface and given the shape of the head we have thousands of curves and angles to play with hence understanding weight distribution.

I think that angles on the head could be by think about a fan placing on the crown open it up  many angles now place on crown different direction again many angles how to they the work together? These two shots above and below highlight perfectly bad hair i really don’t know whats worse 1/ That maybe the lady likes this look? Or 2/ slightly worse that she paid for it and a professional thought this acceptable. It’s really bad

As an exercise try this:

Stand behind your client take a section across the crown about 3inches wide comb it straight up now look below your fingers at the section the distance from the crown to your fingers is less in the middle than the distance on the out side of section, why because of the curve of the scalp so it follows that it will be be straight when it falls. Now take that same section and lean it to the left as you do this the hair from the right and into  middle of the section will fall away carry on with the hair traveling to the left of the section the further you go the more will fall away. This is weight distribution!

The hair cut is a hair creation. A style. A look. A fashion setting trend. A statement of individuality. If all of these are the case. Why as stylist do we in so many cases stick in so many cases to cutting the same look on everyone? Without any thought to some very basic points or stick to the safe options on the styles we can create. Will is suite this Client? Do they have the right hair type and features? Can they carry it off?

An example of a make over: Razor cut:

As stylists we owe it to both ourselves and our customers Clients to advise in an honest way on what might work be suitable look good, If we don’t do this are we really doing our job to it’s fullest are we being real professional are we being honest?

I ask these questions of my self constantly do you? We live in a society that for the most part is very accepting and tolerant of most things, People come in all shapes sizes have different needs desires aspirations all good but we as hair stylist have to take a lead and advise honestly what looks good what will not work.

When thinking about shape texture a look should we not consider the type of hair fine, thick, curly, growth patters at the nape of the neck to the hair line will that fringe {Bang }work for this client and her life style? If i cut this harsh blunt line at the nape will the hair lie the way i want it to? or will it always look lop sided? will that fringe work can i over layer ? yes you can should i add texture? questions to ask your self!

Should i cut a harsh line maybe it should be softer! Why do you see so many men with lop sided cuts? Answer no account was taken for the way the hair grows! just because you combed it flat against his neck cut a perfect strait line does not mean it will lie this way!

At this juncture you may be laughing or thinking this is not me maybe not if so great you are one of the few. I think the fault with these issues lies in training or lack their of! to little time spent on the basic points key to understanding how to build and create a great cut!

Shape  for Example:

when will we stop re vamping the Bob with the chewed up wings the spaniel look! every look has it day but this one is done and oh so dusted, half the women wearing it should not be! In some cases the lines created are just wrong a heavy women with a thick set does not need a strong blunt line emphasising no neck round shoulders. Think about this really fine hair textured within an inch of its life for that shattered edgy look around the chin will it does it work?

The same can be said for cutting this shape into wavy curly hair the line will not hold in the nape area and the length left again around the chin line will curl up looking like to Brillo pads, yes it looks great when she leaves the salon you have hot ironed it with an inch of it’s life, guess what it’s raining it’s Grey it’s damp what it’s going to look like?

We need to consider these things as professional is a bad look a good representation of out skill and ability will it get us recommendation will it get us client retention? It’s all about honest it’s all about that consultation it’s all about your standard your skill your passion your ability.

My question is. Can you be honest does any of this apply to you? We are none of us perfect but we have to question our choices. We have to raise the bar we have to have skill, passion and a real desire to make a difference! DO YOU!

These shots are of a young mum to be. She was heavily pregnant hated how she looked and felt. She came into the salon I was working at her words were. I have been to three salons today I want all my hair off  a total change. No one will do it they look at me like a crazy pregnant women.  I smiled said i will. she said really. As you can see the rest is history! next day she gave birth . She called me three days later to thank me.

To share, to seek new knowledge, skills and techniques to share experience is to grow!

Mike B2MR

I would love feed back on this through this blog article or my web site:

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

The Salon Success Club

Owning a salon. 

Running a successful business has many challenges yet equally can be so rewarding. You get out what you put in. As a salon owner you have to wear so many hats. Think about all the jobs you do out side of hands on hair. How do you ever find time to service your clients. Like so many salon owners is it a juggling act. Do you wish you had another pair of hands or could delegate more? Are you a leader able to delegate or are you one who keeps a tight hand on the reins? If so could this tight rein be holding you back?

How do you as a salon owner decide what products to carry: What will you staff embrace believe in enough to use and sell?

*Is it the Brand?

*Is it the packaging?

*Is it smell?

*Is it cost?

As a retail product when marked up will it be profitability? Is it an all natural earth and environment saving product? How do you decide. Do you trust the sales Rep?

This is big business: you have to get it right on so many levels!

*How much can you mark it up?

*Will it sell? Does it have appeal?

*Do the staff like and support this product?

*Is the support education good?

How much stock do you have to carry? It’s so easy to get sucked in remember many product lines change packaging to re invent it and increase future sales. If you carry to much stock you may get left with old product! Carry only enough stock for a month at a time.Try to pay on 30 days and this way your don’t have money sitting on the shelf. Get staff involved, pay fair commission or incentive. Don’t mark up so much that it cannot sell. Stay on top of stock at all times do not let your friendly sales rep do the ordering for you!!!

Do you need some help with this issues or other matters relating to your business and how to make it a bigger success. Check out the links below for some really useful tools designed to help you get your business growing. OnLine support structured to work with you and support you as you work though the challenges of running and growing your business. Are you ready for a challenge? In order to be able to share these links with you for the past Month i have taken the challenge and worked through the material provided by salon success both audio and PDF books downloads.

It does take allocating some time. it’s not a quick fix Magic pill that does all the work for you. It encourages you. To look at what your doing, why and how, It discuses how to change things look at things and issues in a positive light. Very easy to follow and listen to highly recommended . If it was not would it be here? if you require more info drop me a note or leave me a question.

Mike B2MR

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Lifting or lightening hair colour :

It is not always about going Blonde is it? It can involve lifting or lightening ones only natural colour or lifting our a darker shade application.What eve the case it can and will have and may cause some issues.This is such a huge topic it can and will open up many. Different application, formulation, situations. I will try to cover or uncover as many as possible.

I think before we start to look at the various colour options available to us. We have to take a look at and understand the process of lift deposit and hair pigmentation. The law’s of colour. The colour wheel. How to control the unwanted tones exposed in the lifting process.

Whether doing all over lift with a Bleach De-colouriser or using High Lift Blonde permanent colour for all all over colour techniques. One will always encounter unwanted pigment in the form of warmth. The key to controlling this is to understanding the colour wheel, tones needed to control the exposed pigment. The same rules will apply if doing a High lighted effect when requiring lift and deposit.

Let us look at lift and lightening

The Stages of Lightening:

When lifting or lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair. If left on for long periods or if the lifting action is kept going. This action would be by re-applying fresh formula on top of any application to keep the lifting action  of removing pigment going.

Remember the Colour wheel: The tool you need to understand learn and trust!

{you can see shades in the outer wheel }  

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown.[4] Red.[5]. Red-orange.[6]. orange-yellow.[7] yellow -orange.[8]

yellow.[9] pale yellow. [10]

The first colour is always the stronger shade! So consider this when making choices regarding lifting pigment and tone. On to Primary colour. Secondary colour . Tertiary colour as seen on the colour wheel.

These being Primary.

Red.Blue.Yellow

Secondary.

Orange.Green. Violet.

Tertiary.

Yellow/green Yellow/orange Yellow/red   Red/orange Red/Violet Blue /violet Blue/green

If this sounds a little complicated well here is a useful tool for you.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel learn to trust it.

Level 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

At the top of the coloured pie section

10=yellow

9= Yellow orange

8= Orange

7=Red orange

6= Red

And so on down the chart of natural levels 5.4.3.1 bear in mind that once up in the high lift area of 9 and 10 you are dealing with degree’s of yellow and pale yellow depending on amount of pigment you have removed or exposed!

lets use an example:

Working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? Is it possible to get there? Lets see.

*Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed.

*Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

*Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

*Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

Four levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with to warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected from Uv -sun light.

The Relationship between. 

Natural hair colour . Hydrogen peroxide. Permanent colour is a complex one. When lifting hair we have to take so many variations into account if we are going to achieve the desired colour and tone.This is not a simple process. Why? As we look at a shade chart to choose a colour,there are so many thing to consider.

First and foremost.

The consultation our time to gain as much information and history as possible a time for some honest and frank questions.Before we can consider our way forward,we have to take into account the natural base colour of the head. Assess Natural level. Percentage of Grey if any. Discuss goals and targets desired colour and tone Are they realistic? Are they achievable? It is at this point we have to make some decisions, for we have many choices.

Permanent colour.

This involves both lift and deposit, so we have to consider, do we want warmth or not? The less warmth we require, the lower volume of peroxide we should use. As the peroxide volume is increased, we lift the natural level more, exposing more underlying warmth or pigment, do we want or need this warmth?

Maybe we want a semi or Demi colour, both deposit with out exposing any natural pigment, Demi deposit being slightly deeper than semi. It’s all about choice.The key to this is understanding lift and deposit, understanding the relationship between peroxide, lift and pigment being exposed. Do you?

As we have introduced this warmth.  We have to have decide, do we want to utilize or neutralize it. This is why our choice of colour and peroxide are so important, our formulation has to be carefully thought about. To get the desired results. We have to understand lift, deposit, pigment exposure, and the colour wheel.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood. I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible. Full consultation prior to any chemical service is essential. If in doubt do a strand test.

What makes it challenging:

When we assess our hair natural colour, we work off a scale of 1 to 10 in most instances

1=Black 10= Blonde this is pretty much Universal standard within the hair industry.

When deciding on Permanent hair colour. We have to access the natural level of the hair, before we can move forward and choose a target colour. A big mistake made is not considering the Volume of Peroxide being used and the influence it will have over your chosen colour.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde.

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 } This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength of  Hydrogen Peroxide.10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking. The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Depth and Tone:

ICS, International colouring system, Offers a system where hair colours and shades are divided into numbers. Using our example of level 6  a chosen 6/1 would denote a shade at level six with underlying Ash Pigment { perfect for neutralizing red orange undertone}

Laws of colour are just that Laws they cannot be broken.

Over the years i have worked with many stylist who like to break the rules.They Don’t measure colour. They don’t ever read the technical manual.They mix shades hit and miss. Oh so random, but ego dictates they know it all! I have made a great deal of money correcting these dull muddy over processed colour jobs. Understand the colour Wheel.Trust what it tells you, how it guides you, consider the environment you are working on. Take the time to read the black stuff in the technical manual, it normally has the answers to your issues and problems.

My hope is that all this information and the useful charts will help you and encourage you to think the process through and challenge your self and your thinking when lift hair lighter, from either a natural base shade or from a darker previously coloured shade.

Comments always welcome Mike B2MR: