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Category Archives: Colour correction

Natural darker hair to sun kissed natural tones .

21 Feb

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

  Regular postings of fresh new topic’s:

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Low Lights: The most natural form of High – Low Lights:

Whilst chatting with the Coffee barrister recently about her hair, she informed me that she does like to lighten her hair but like so many has an issues with lifting beyond that orange brown hue. She is of Asian decent, naturally very dark shade and tone hence the pigment issues. In a perfect world she would like caramel sun kissed shades beige maybe even golden blonde . Is this possible? lets see.

Issues around lifting naturally dark hair shades:

The shade you get when using a lighter shade on darker hair comes from lift generated by the peroxide in the product a apart of the formulation. Very little colour change takes place and in most cases these products do not have enough pigment to control the pigment you have exposed leaving an unwanted tone. This would be the case if we were dealing with Natural or virgin hair of a natural level of 5 and darker.However if the hair has been previously coloured remember you cannot lift colour with colour!

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind. Those tones shades that natural lightening created from manipulating the hair’s natural pigment. Enabling us to use those tones just a few shade lighter than our natural base shade that add dimension tone and shine a really natural look. 

In so many cases a client will ask for low lights that  give a few shades of lift for a natural look. However on so many occasions.They can end up with a bleach decolouriser cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment or toner to control the lift. Why can this occur?  How does this happen. Poor consultation. Sad lack of creative skill and technical knowledge.

A Different approach: 

Consider this. A natural hair level 1,2,3,4,5 These are what would normally be considered as the darker shades. Brown through to Dark brown even black: {Asian hair} 

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process. {We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange!}

To create Low lights: That sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind. We need to asses the hair. We have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose and how we are going to control it! During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history.  This plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? If all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter it will effect the the choices you make and the out come. You cannot lift colour with colour!! So if a previous chemical history trying to create a low light using  a high lift blonde formulation will not work.

                        Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour:

                            { some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are}

My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is

                          High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights:

This method dictates  that you fully understand pigment lift deposit. That you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range  DOES THE PRODUCT? Have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

                                 Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required { heat can be very bad in the colour process} It can cause bleeds due to product expansion. 

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear. With some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade, but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation so if using the clear as a booster no more than 20%  should be used in any formulation.

The 100 series on it’s own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free. So any lift will  create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment. Given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from High lift blonde what can we expect? Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7.

As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light. The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed!.

The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

                                           Multi shades very natural looking:

Low lights: Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base. Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success. You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour.
                 Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing!

Think of  of it as. Formulation, Mix, Timing! Just like baking a cake recipe ingredients over temp Timing. perfect cake perfect colour! have fun let me know how you get on!

Mike B2MR

 
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Posted by on February 21, 2012 in Blonde highlights, Blonde shade going darker, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, consultation, corrective hair colour charts, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair lift and deposit, Hair stylist consultation, Karendavid Salon success, Multi tonal low lights, Ombre hair colour, Salon success, service, Solid hair colour going lighter, The colour wheel

 

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Going Lighter. Blonde and beyond!

13 Feb

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Lifting or lightening hair colour :

It is not always about going Blonde is it? It can involve lifting or lightening ones only natural colour or lifting our a darker shade application.What eve the case it can and will have and may cause some issues.This is such a huge topic it can and will open up many. Different application, formulation, situations. I will try to cover or uncover as many as possible.

I think before we start to look at the various colour options available to us. We have to take a look at and understand the process of lift deposit and hair pigmentation. The law’s of colour. The colour wheel. How to control the unwanted tones exposed in the lifting process.

Whether doing all over lift with a Bleach De-colouriser or using High Lift Blonde permanent colour for all all over colour techniques. One will always encounter unwanted pigment in the form of warmth. The key to controlling this is to understanding the colour wheel, tones needed to control the exposed pigment. The same rules will apply if doing a High lighted effect when requiring lift and deposit.

Let us look at lift and lightening

The Stages of Lightening:

When lifting or lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair. If left on for long periods or if the lifting action is kept going. This action would be by re-applying fresh formula on top of any application to keep the lifting action  of removing pigment going.

Remember the Colour wheel: The tool you need to understand learn and trust!

{you can see shades in the outer wheel }  

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown.[4] Red.[5]. Red-orange.[6]. orange-yellow.[7] yellow -orange.[8]

yellow.[9] pale yellow. [10]

The first colour is always the stronger shade! So consider this when making choices regarding lifting pigment and tone. On to Primary colour. Secondary colour . Tertiary colour as seen on the colour wheel.

These being Primary.

Red.Blue.Yellow

Secondary.

Orange.Green. Violet.

Tertiary.

Yellow/green Yellow/orange Yellow/red   Red/orange Red/Violet Blue /violet Blue/green

If this sounds a little complicated well here is a useful tool for you.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel learn to trust it.

Level 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

At the top of the coloured pie section

10=yellow

9= Yellow orange

8= Orange

7=Red orange

6= Red

And so on down the chart of natural levels 5.4.3.1 bear in mind that once up in the high lift area of 9 and 10 you are dealing with degree’s of yellow and pale yellow depending on amount of pigment you have removed or exposed!

lets use an example:

Working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? Is it possible to get there? Lets see.

*Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed.

*Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

*Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

*Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

Four levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with to warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected from Uv -sun light.

The Relationship between. 

Natural hair colour . Hydrogen peroxide. Permanent colour is a complex one. When lifting hair we have to take so many variations into account if we are going to achieve the desired colour and tone.This is not a simple process. Why? As we look at a shade chart to choose a colour,there are so many thing to consider.

First and foremost.

The consultation our time to gain as much information and history as possible a time for some honest and frank questions.Before we can consider our way forward,we have to take into account the natural base colour of the head. Assess Natural level. Percentage of Grey if any. Discuss goals and targets desired colour and tone Are they realistic? Are they achievable? It is at this point we have to make some decisions, for we have many choices.

Permanent colour.

This involves both lift and deposit, so we have to consider, do we want warmth or not? The less warmth we require, the lower volume of peroxide we should use. As the peroxide volume is increased, we lift the natural level more, exposing more underlying warmth or pigment, do we want or need this warmth?

Maybe we want a semi or Demi colour, both deposit with out exposing any natural pigment, Demi deposit being slightly deeper than semi. It’s all about choice.The key to this is understanding lift and deposit, understanding the relationship between peroxide, lift and pigment being exposed. Do you?

As we have introduced this warmth.  We have to have decide, do we want to utilize or neutralize it. This is why our choice of colour and peroxide are so important, our formulation has to be carefully thought about. To get the desired results. We have to understand lift, deposit, pigment exposure, and the colour wheel.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood. I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible. Full consultation prior to any chemical service is essential. If in doubt do a strand test.

What makes it challenging:

When we assess our hair natural colour, we work off a scale of 1 to 10 in most instances

1=Black 10= Blonde this is pretty much Universal standard within the hair industry.

When deciding on Permanent hair colour. We have to access the natural level of the hair, before we can move forward and choose a target colour. A big mistake made is not considering the Volume of Peroxide being used and the influence it will have over your chosen colour.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde.

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 } This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength of  Hydrogen Peroxide.10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking. The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Depth and Tone:

ICS, International colouring system, Offers a system where hair colours and shades are divided into numbers. Using our example of level 6  a chosen 6/1 would denote a shade at level six with underlying Ash Pigment { perfect for neutralizing red orange undertone}

Laws of colour are just that Laws they cannot be broken.

Over the years i have worked with many stylist who like to break the rules.They Don’t measure colour. They don’t ever read the technical manual.They mix shades hit and miss. Oh so random, but ego dictates they know it all! I have made a great deal of money correcting these dull muddy over processed colour jobs. Understand the colour Wheel.Trust what it tells you, how it guides you, consider the environment you are working on. Take the time to read the black stuff in the technical manual, it normally has the answers to your issues and problems.

My hope is that all this information and the useful charts will help you and encourage you to think the process through and challenge your self and your thinking when lift hair lighter, from either a natural base shade or from a darker previously coloured shade.

Comments always welcome Mike B2MR:

 
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Posted by on February 13, 2012 in Beauty hair salon, Blonde, Blonde highlights, brunette to Blonde, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, consultation, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, hair chemistry, hair colour education, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair lift and deposit, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Solid hair colour going lighter, The colour wheel

 

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If your hair colour goes badly wrong. what to do!

07 Feb

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR  regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

I posted a reply to the issues raised in this Article: Thought i would share some thoughts and exchanges between myself and a client.

This is such a contentious subject:

A never ending issue for so many women. I thought it worthy of sharing below extracts from our exchange.

Below have posted the question raised in dark solid type. and have tried to respond to the question raised this.This was a real situation and exchange of idea’s with someone who contacted me on line via this blog.
                         lets look at this issue together

Text from Initial article:

Question:

I am trying to get my normal hair colour back. But I am really not interested in waiting for it to happen by itself. So to this ends I colour my hair in  the same colour as my normal colour. Last night I used Schwartzkopf Essential Color – Ash Blonde. A brilliant concept Sadly I ended up with lighter roots, still with a gold hue and lighter than my natural shade.The Mid length’s and ends were darker and rather drab!

My response:

Poor your! Was your hair previously coloured? Firstly just because it’s ammonia free does not make it one Peroxide free so it still lifts all of your hair. Bringing out natural warmth in the regrowth. Secondly if it does not have Ammonia and it’s marketed as as natural it has De-alcoholised grain bye product in it or some other Alkaline. This can just as drying in some cases more so than Ammonia.It just does the job of opening the cuticle in a slightly different way. If you are mixing two products together  then the chances are you are still using peroxide in your formulation and so permanent hair colour.
                                        over processed dull lifeless

Client Reply:

Wow! Thanks so much for your response! I learned a lot and will definitely keep an eye out for your blog, because my hair is a pain (hence it’s very curly).
And yes, it was previously coloured.

My Reply:

Thanks you again for the reply. Sadly one cannot lift colour with colour nor do any of the products one buys advise on effect on previously coloured hair.

As soon as we use choose permanent colour the equation changes as we lift our own hair so we lighten the pigment and warmth comes in to play hence lift and deposit.

But as we lift we then have to choose a shade that can take this warmth into account,the question becomes? Do you want to use it or neutralize it or utilize it?.

Once hair has a colour history then we have a new issue that being. Roots or re growth that have never been previously coloured and mid lengths and ends with history of previous chemical service. In this case different formulation will be required,one to lift and deposit on the root area. One just deposit to colour balance.

Back to your situation. If your natural shade is darker than what you have, You don’t need a formulation to lift your hair just one to deposit. Demi permanent or Semi  permanent would be enough if its to warm shows orange hue. Then get an ash based shade Isuggest level 6 this will neutralize unwanted warmth. Semi permanent or Demi permanent  Natural level Dark Blonde.

The above shot is a god example of going lighter over time from an all over permanent solid shade. It also allows for the issue of Grey hair,In this instance by introducing over time different shades of lowlights with out the need for bleaching.We are embracing the grey issue working with it.Over time the hair is in better condition and the time between needing colour service is extended.

You might think odd why would you want to see a client less often? Good point but because she is so happy this client recommends more of her friends they keep my busy .In real terms i am growing my business by being honest and giving great service.

Try it It’s not always about the 4 or 6 week ticket it is about re booking in a time frame that works for each and every client be it 4 weeks 6 weeks or 8weeks!
                                    Healthy natural looking colour

The above model was having highlights every 5 to 6 weeks .It was to Blonde damaged over processed.Now with low lighting and highlighting she has her roots done only on the top a big T section every 3 months the rest is natural .She is very happy!

hope this helps you.

Mike B2MR

Thanks :)
Next time I will without a doubt go to a professional to colour my hair. Consider this a promise!

So many colour issues can arise from home colour. Be it first attempt or regular colouring trying to get that perfect shade with tone and condition.

In so many cases the over the counter super market or store purchased colour. Does not give advise on all the issues that can arise.

Sadly they don’t even give advise with regard to. Switching shades from Dark to light from Red to Blonde, or something in between.

I strongly suggest research, consultation, or post questions asking for answer’s on my blog site:

Many topic’s have already been covered so feel free to search past articles.

Don’t rely on luck get informed before you start down this colour path.

MikeB2MR

 
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Posted by on February 7, 2012 in Beauty hair salon, chemical reactions, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, communication, consultation, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, Hair lift and deposit, home hair colour, service, Solid hair colour going lighter, The colour wheel

 

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Darker side of life! trying a darker hair colour or shade!

04 Feb

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products, techniques

 LIGHT TO DARK shades and tone:

Can you go from blonde hair to Darker shade. Can it look good? Will it work ? yes yes yes! In many cases it can make your own natural colouring come alive. Your eyes look brighter . Your skin tone takes on a whole new look. When you want to go lighter with a little patients  it can be done without to much effort.

[See posting on going from solid to lighter tones].

If you’re are  like so many. Not blessed with natural blonde sun kissed hair or maybe your unfortunate enough to be cursed with true natural blonde! Maybe you want to tone down your hair one of the best ways to do this without walking out of the salon looking like you just put a wig on your head is to have Demi-permanent hair colour this form of colour leave the hair looking more natural the deposit offering more tone and dimension but has a translucent look to it. Another key advantage is how easy it is to lift out when you want to start going lighter or brighter.

                          The big question Should I go Darker?  Why not ?

Permanent or Demi deposit:

Permanent hair color both lifts you own hair whilst deposits color into your hair.  If your hair is lighter than your target colour there is no need to “lift” your hair  it will introduce unwanted warmth and may damage it . Demi-permanent hair color is easier on the hair but the deposit is deeper than traditional semi  permanent colour. Even with multiple shades as below if you wanted to go darker could you? The answer is yes .A Demi formulation of a level 5 or darker would give you depth and tone but with multiple shades due to the starting tonal base shades.

                                    Demarcation lines or  re-growth:

A demi-permanent color will help ease the growing out process because it doesn’t create a stark line in contrast with your natural hair color so long as the correct shade is chosen  as it fades, the lines get a little  blurred this form of colour blends and really supports the growing out process.

Transitioning:  Transition to a darker shade if you are unsure about going darker do some research maybe try on a darker wig hold some darker shades up to your face see how it works with eye colour and skin tone.

In many case a Demi colour application will last longer than a permanent hair colour due to the fact your not introducing the peroxide and thus lightening part of the colour equation to the hair, it will help the “going darker” process since  hair previously made blonde hair often times needs to be “filled.”  Basically, bleached hair is like a sponge as easily as it soaks up color it loses color.  (Keep in mind that this is also why low light’s fade more quickly the more blonde you get in your hair).

A Demi application will help to fill in the gaps so when you do choose to go darker there is something already in the hair for the color molecules to hold on to. the above is a perfect example of grown out lighter shade that could so easily go darker with a Demi application.

Should you hair be naturally light but you want to try going a shade or a few shades darker the same applies you don’t need a permanent formulation. As soon as you use a formulation to lift the hair warmth will come into play!!!

The above looks in some ways far to dark and solid but when going from light to dark the hair will tend to take the colour as a very solid look but within a couple of washes tone will start to shine through! remember hair that has been previously pre lightened will not hold colour as much as no lifted hair!

It’s all about change:

It’s an opportunity to have fun.  You can try different tones and different colors without having to worry about it lasting as long as normal hair color.  You can make your hair a “chocolate” brown or you can give it some warmth and make it a “golden brown” or even “auburn.”

Always consider where you natural level sits on a shade chart and how many shades you want to darken it by, also consider that a change in colour will effect skin tone and choice of make up!

A Demi formulation slowly fades out but constant use of this formulation can build up and create a more permanent demarcation line.

Hopefully you enjoy playing with your the darker side! of your hair, that is.  What’s color  do you wish you could achieve with your hair? Or do you like your natural color?

Its all about choice making one and living or maybe embracing the consequences!

Thanks Mike B2MR

 
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Posted by on February 4, 2012 in Blonde highlights, Blonde shade going darker, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, consultation, corrective hair colour charts, hair chemistry, hair colour education, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon consultation, Hairdressing colour style trends, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Multi tonal low lights, Solid hair colour going lighter, The colour wheel

 

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Natural Herbal organic hair colour.

30 Jan

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market. I do however try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products I come across. Or that seem new and exciting

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

If MEA has bee around for so long how is it such a new innovation? Is it just a re hash of another type of alkaline? We are now flooded with adds marketing on so many ‘Ammonia free products’ without any hint of the re placement chemistry or what it does!  So why don’t we question why do we trust!

This revolution is now already in many of the home colour kits that promote quick fix Ammonia free colour! is this really professional? just because it’s say’s ‘Herbal’ and has a natural plant extract photo on the box does not make it healthier than anything else.

Lets be clear it’s marketing.It’s selling you what you are being conditioned to ask for!

The question I ask is simple. Is it really a new innovation? Is it really any less harmful than Ammonia? Thoughts on new MEA as engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  Also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ?

Ammonia gas can dissolve in water to form Ammonium Hydroxide, which is highly corrosive.

This can occur on the skin, eyes and lungs if large enough amounts of gas are released. 

(Source MSDS sheet from Airgas Inc. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.}

Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

There is no proof that Ammonia washes off the hair fully or that MEA is any better or indeed washes out it is suggested the Silicon oil does remain in the hair ! whats in that oil?

Breakage, fading, damaged, over-processed hair will occur when using chemical based color. Try Organic Color Systems for the best, most gentle, natural, organic results. Good luck! Don’t give up on your desired hair color, just take a different approach.

In many cases Ammonia becomes more damaging depending on its strength higher levels certainly open the cuticle more! but in low levels and controlled  0.4% 1.2% found in some professional colour is in my opinion safe to use and can be trusted to attain good colour results.

Below is a link and article found posted through twitter both very interesting i think this company really is trying to make a difference have some integrity:

                                                 See past Blog for information on MEA

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no reply! I have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?


Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.quote:

Mike, I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

Months later product never arrived so cannot give any up date.I still await an organic hair colour company to provide some product to try and education material that is open and transparent in both chemistry use and expectation/final results.

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them ,so i can share a review with you all

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour. Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

An example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends! The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10vol 3%.

although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

In preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

As quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Now, just a few months later, Some salons are coming to a rude awakening – that the chosen product line is not ammonia freeand is clearly labeled as containing ammonia hydroxide.  Imagine seeing a new client who is a cancer survivor, a chemotherapy patient, or simply allergic to ammonia and then assuring them that the professional hair color product you use is ammonia free.  What could you possibly tell them after their treatment in which you unknowingly applied ammonia hydroxide to their scalp?  Would they sympathize with you if you told them that you bought the marketing hype but failed to read the ingredients label?  Salon professionals are licensed professionals and as such have an obligation and duty of care when dealing with the trust a client places in their hands to provide them with a safe and positive treatment.  It stands to reason that a minimum level of care begins with knowing the chemicals being applied to their scalp.

What is exceptional is that salon professionals everywhere are using this product without reading the ingredient labels of the products in the line.  The ingredients label for I certain post shampoo recommended for post-color shampoo with  “no ammonia” line clearly contains ammonia hydroxide as indicated in their ingredients list on the left While one side of the bottle indicates its contents as “Innovative No Ammonia” the other sides lists ammonia hydroxide on its legally required and government regulated ingredients label. always read directions always read formulation never trust the sales rep! do your own research ask questions? Keep asking question until you get the right answers.

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

 
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Posted by on January 30, 2012 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Blonde, chemical reactions, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, communication, consultation, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, home hair colour, Metallic salts, Qualification., service, The colour wheel

 

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